38. Wisteria Bean Pergolas in Megève and Ptown Botanical Moments

European Ski Towns in the Summer and Cape Cod Bliss

Dec 04, 2022

Hello from the South of Spain! Where we are currently hiding out from the recent winter winds rolling through Amsterdam. In keeping with last week’s newsletter, we are still oscillating between North America and France. This week I’ll take you to back to the summer in Megève and early autumn in Provincetown.

Megève Pit Stop

Known as a bougie destination in the wintertime for skiers, Nico and I decided to take a short driving break here on our way to Mont Blanc so Lulu could stretch her legs and we could get an ice cream to cool down. We were pleasantly surprised by the florals sprinkled throughout, including a flourishing bean pergola in one especially green corner of town.

Perhaps it is because we normally travel during the time this plant beans out, and I don’t normally see them in the South of France where we tend to be most years in August/September. When I asked my mother-in-law if she recognized these beans growing, she told me they were in fact wisteria! Wisteria grows absolutely everywhere in Amsterdam, it has an epic spring takeover with thousands of periwinkle flowers across town. I even have one crawling up to my balcony from the neighbour that is in the midst of a love affair with my passionflower plant. But I have yet to see one grow beans (even though wisteria is technically a legume), which happens when the plant is fully thriving. Fresh mountain air definitely wins out on the polluted city air (Although Amsterdam is easily the least polluted city I have ever lived in - even though Dutchies complain about the air quality here). So I understand why these beans decided to blossom in the Alps. It can also potentially be that the type of wisteria commonly grown in Amsterdam differs from the one growing in this Megève garden, since some types of wisteria rarely grow beans, whereas others love to.

These beans are quite toxic to humans so admire them from afar, or harvest a bushel to design a unique floral creation. As autumn cools down, these bean pods (or actually seed pods) dry out and explode to send their wisteria babies out into the world to proliferate.

showstopping petunias and eucalyptus spread

wildflower and vegetable garden seemingly open to the community

Lulu was so over this road trip, she loves her routine in Amsterdam. Elvis was hot, but happy in his basket.

Botanical Moments in Provincetown

One of the most iconic restaurants in Ptown is the The Lobster Pot. It’s been around for ages and growing up we always had a meal or two there and got takeout chowder after longboarding around the marina. It’s where Bourdain notoriously worked, it backs right onto the beach and the menu is so large you can swim in it instead of the ocean if the sharks are too close to shore. Nico and I spent a rainy afternoon there this year, with all the soups and hot chocolate. We admired the misty view and basil growing in pots along the terrace.

Of all the flowers cascading through Commercial Street, the most notable are the ‘dinner plate’ hibiscus. As large as their namesake, and dominating across gardens around town, they are an admirable addition to a yard.

these hibiscus babes were almost as big

It’s funny how we notice things as we get older, I’ve been to Ptown so many times but never fully appreciated the botanicals of it. This year on a sweaty walk to the pool at Ptown Inn (iykyk) I was falling behind everyone (as per usual) and stopped at a long green path. A local resident, an older man (I kick myself for not asking his name), told me that it’s actually an official road for cars, but the neighbours teamed up together to turn it into a garden street complete with grass and personal gardens spilling out and welcoming passerbys.

In a dream world, and without pets to assume it is their endless litterbox, I would love to have a home carpeted in lush grasses like the ones brushed across the sandy hiking paths along the cape.

salicornia look-alike

how iconic

clematis fever, I think Sweet Autumn

wild roses

Some things nourishing me this week:

Leonora Carrington and Tarot? Um fuck yes
Lunch at De Sering (Thanks Mama Ale), it’s a multipurpose space in Amsterdam West that is bringing back affordable food (two course vegan lunch for around 4 euros!). Anyone know initiatives doing this back in Canada? I know everyone is feeling the pressures of inflation - I can only recommend Midnight Kitchen in Montréal.
Belated birthday dinner for my Sagittarius prince at the best Sichuan in town <3
This fruit loving monkey and Mary Stuart’s Orange at the Rijksmuseum
The fresh vanilla whipped cream on homemade hot chocolate at the new bakery in Amsterdam West, Brioche.