56. Ubudian Rice Fields and Canang Sari
Exploring paddies and the unique offerings of Bali's spiritual centre
Welcome into the rice fields (paddys? paddies?) of Ubud, the spiritual centre of Bali…
Walking along the Rice Terraces
Ubud began as a holy place to visit years ago due to its proximity to the sacred springs of Pura Tirtha Empal and those who made the pilgrimage seeking out its waters. Ubud actually stems from the word Ubad - meaning medicine. There is proof as far back as 300 BC demonstrating that Buddhist ties to the city (specifically the arrival of Buddhist priest Rsi Markandeya) led to it’s reputation as a place of healing and devotion. In recent years with Eat Pray Love tourism, Ubud, nestled in flowing terraces of rice fields, has become a mainstream wellness and spirituality destination.
Rice Terraces in Bali are an intrinsic part of the culture, they date back as far as 2,000 years. Each terrace is protected by a water temple, and water is directed from the rivers into canals that irrigate the terraces. This system is called the Subak system. Subak integrates the Tri Hita Karana - the three realms: spirit, human, and natural world. The entire process is considered holy and integrative to the island culture. You can learn more about Tri Hita Karana, here. In addition to the irrigation systems in place, the volcanic activity on the island produces extremely fertile soil, the ideal growing conditions for rice.
You are allowed to walk along the footpath of the rice terraces (just look out for snakes - never actually seen one but Nico has instilled some fear of that in me). Just make sure to be respectful of any farmers you come across and don’t stray from the designated footpath.
Rice is so important to Balinese culture that there are around 12 annual ceremonies celebrating the grain and the harvest.
The rice fields just before twilight:
The UNESCO website goes into more detail about the protected terraces, which you can check out here.
The easiest way to enjoy the rice fields nowadays are by exploring the trails. If you are staying in Ubud - a good place to start is the Campuhan Ridge Trail but go early in the morning before the heat and packs of tourists peak. If you want the view without the sweat, you can also pay for day access a hotel/restaurant with a pool, try visiting ones that are owned by Indonesians to support the local economy.
Here are some Balinese-owned hotels that match different budgets:
There are five UNESCO protected rice terraces throughout the island. These two are a bit outside Ubud: Tegalalang (20 min drive) and Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (1h30min drive). We visited Tegalalang, driving past the touristy restaurants with instagram swings (and probably better views) and into a tiny village of glass artists where we stopped to capture some gentle terrace views.
Expect to pay a small fee at any main entrances to these rice terraces, the donation fees flow back into the community and help preserve these ancient sites.
Some moments of Ubudian Canang Sari, complete with Kretek (clove cigarettes):
The world lost an incredible human this weekend and someone very close to my heart </3. You never know what others around you are going through so hug your loved ones tight and try to go out of your way to be friendly, even if you’re frazzled while out and about.
Some things nourishing me lately:
spontaneous date nights - like this one at Order Sichuan in Amsterdam Noord, one of my favourite restaurants in the city.
Hot chocolate in Bos en Lommer
Walks in the Westerpark Secret Gardens
veggies and halloumi
socializing at the goat farm in Amsterdamse Bos
the smell of lilacs
Jamaican food at the Annual Food Truck Festival (Rollende Keukens)
I’ll be in London next week for the Chelsea Flower Show so I will see you all in two weeks! You can follow along to London with me through Instagram if you don’t already <3
Know someone who loves stories about garden travel or garden writing in general?
Still not subscribed?
<3